American Fork

With the temps rising to scorching levels, Pro-Series will have to wait. Fortunately, the AF season is in full swing. We've been getting out mostly only on Saturdays and Tanleng managed to send Merciless Onslaught (hardest 12b ever!!! Eliciting major punting from me) and me sending Teardrop 13a. These aren't huge numbers but I'm relieved to know that with my limited endurance, I can make it work with efficient movement and the power I have stored up all winter.

So I figured maybe now's the time for a bigger number...Dead Souls 13d/14a at the El Diablo wall. This climb was first ascended by Scott Franklin during the AF pioneering era and given 14a. The grade was consolidated at 13d after several ascends. However, a hold at the 3rd clip broke some years ago and locals began calling it 14a again.

I first sussed out Dead Souls in Aug 09 when I was in SLC for a month. I remembered having a pretty hard time just clipping the draws, let alone climbing the darn thing. I was apprehensive about getting back on it at first cos I was thinking I'll probably get my arse handed to me like I did almost a year ago. Strangely, the moves felt very much more doable this time, and the holds even seemed to have grown!?!?!?!! Make no mistake, the climb is still bouldery hard and the hard clips just further compound the problem. So that was last Sat Jul 3rd. Tanleng was getting spanked on El Diablo 12d/13a (wat's up with all the slash grades in AF?)

We returned on Jul 5 (Mon) for another sesh. This time, Tanleng managed to do all the moves on El Diablo. Excellent progress honestly cos she wasn't even remotely close previously. And I actually came pretty close too with one hang on Deal Souls. Though these aren't big steps forward for both of us, whatever progress we get, we'll take it. As for the send, only time will tell, won't it?

As for my weapon of choice this time in hope of slaying the beast of the steep El Diablo wall....

....the Demon.