BAH HUM BUG!!!

The weather hasn't been on our side lately. To say the least, the outlook has been grim. We got a snow closure notice from the U the other day for a blizzard warning. On the one hand, the storm turned out to be rather lame cos it's bark was worse than it's bite. On the other hand, I thought the U did a great job getting everyone off school/work so that we can return home safely. Nevertheless, temps are way below ideal for any climbing....bbbrrrrrr!


Here's a vid from Joe Kinder that speaks volumes about the situation right now. The snow really is a sight to behold, especially here in Utah (best snow on earth!). At the same time, climbing's out of the question.

The Dreadful First Snow of The Season from Joey Kinder on Vimeo.

So we pretty much have been getting into the gym alot, working on the last few assignments/exams for the end of the semester and looking forward to our trip back to Spore. And as much as we envy those who are still enjoying their climbing in the warmer regions, I've decided not to dwell on things I haven't done, but reflect on things that I have done this past season.

The season has been eventful to say the least. Looking back, I realized we've actually spent all our time on the rope. I guess the bouldering season didn't really happen. Ever since I snagged the 2nd ascent of Lateralus, I've decided to consolidate my climbing at the 14a level rather than hit up a higher grade. Moreover, with all the stuff that's on my plate right now, I find it hard to keep my climbing at a desirable level having to deal with pursuing a doctoral degree. The challenge is in the balance. Anyway, even as I reflect on some of the more notable climbs I've done this season, they are a greater reflection of my personal struggle to stay on top of my game than number chasing.

American Prayer, 5.14a (Rifle, CO)
Cryptic bouldery lower section that required me to devise a sequence that felt V9/10. Combined with having to compete at the Teva Mountain Games in Vail, I really had to dig deep to pull this one off. I also had to focus on getting the top section dialed in, lest I punted off post crux. Rifle's a beautiful place to climb. Plans are underway for next year.

Deal Souls, 5.14a (American Fork, UT)
Super steep, bouldery, power endurance climb. Clips alone are hard, pulling seemed impossible when I first got on it. Initial progress was good when I had to take a break for a trip to So Cal to visit my Mom. At the same time, we also decided to stop by Yosemite to sample some summer bouldering (check: 80+F, gozillion tourists and bugs). First day, 7:30 am attempt on Midnight Lightning gifted me with a fracture calcaneous (heel). EPIC FAIL!!! Result: Visit Mom ahead of schedule, Mom was pissed and gave me an earful for showing up with an extremely swollen and purple foot. Upon returning to SLC, I could only climb with one foot. But over the course of the rest of the summer, I managed to squeeze my foot into a slightly oversized slipper and sent Dead Souls. Moral of the story...as long as you got them arms, you can make it work with less on ya legs.

Millennium, 5.14a (Maple Canyon, UT)
What can I say about Millennium, except that it's totally my anti-style. I'm better suited to climbs that are short & bouldery, given that I spent so much time in the gym. Considering that the crux is in the low V-grade (perhaps V4?), I got my arse handed to me big time when I first got on it. The pump was sick and I didn't enjoy it. Then again, Tanleng was having a blast at Maple cos that's where her A game's at. I didn't wanna sulk, so suffering on Millennium's better than sitting around like a turd. I totally surprised myself for sending it the first time I blasted through the crux. I've never felt like I had to fight so hard since my send of Asia Shadow Play, Krabi.

I guess it's been a pretty good season thus far except for Big G. Progress came too little too late with winter closing in. I was throwing myself at it 3 days in a row with 5 burns each time, cumulating to me punting off post Cop Killer crux. My fingers were basically frozen. Next season hopefully. And speaking of next season...I'm hoping for bigger things to come...so here's the tentative list:

Big G, 5.14a
Cannibals Direct, 5.14a
Super Tweak, 5.14b.

And in the near future....being able to climb in Spore's infamous weather, 90+F in over 90% humidity...come to think of it, I probably should look forward to the food instead and hanging out with the family...missing my Mom, Dad and bros big time!