Thursday, September 24, 2009

A New Beginning

Eversince we arrived in SLC, we were super psyched to checkout the local climbing areas. First up, Logan Canyon...home to Boone Speed's Super Tweak 14b.


China Cave

Super Tweak's V9 start is to my left.

The place is awesome to say the least. Considering that the wall is a 5-min stroll from the pullout and that it's shaded all day with the creek running next to it, it really doesn't get any better than this. There are more than a lifetime of routes right here.

Had a great first day out with an onsighted of Vulcan Crawl 12d/13a and if it wasn't for the huge flappers from the vulcan hold, I would've sent Girl Power 13b on my second try. Solution...tape, check....Girl Power, check. Brilliant route with a little bit off everything thrown at you...face climb, roof and overhang...I wouldn't exactly say that I like the sharp pockets though.

The following weekend, we decided to check out American Fork, which was a 40-min drive south of SLC. I managed to get in touch with Jeff Webb during the week and it was really pleasant to connect with someone who's familiar with Singapore in SLC. Jeff spent some time teaching as a visiting professor at NUS in the late 90s and that was perhaps the first time any of us in Spore had actually met a 5.14 climber. Not to mention the first ascentionist of Lung Fish (probably 14b now with the traffic it has gotten) in Rifle. Anyway, we got in touch and headed out to AF.


Together with Jeff at Hell Wall.

Jeff giving Hell 13a a burn.

Apparently the bloke hasn't been climbing for quite a while and obviously isn't in his prime but when you've got what it takes to be world class once, you'll always have it. His movement on rock puts my brute cranking to shame.


Me on Hell 13a...a bouldery little beast!


Jeff giving me a rundown of the routes at the Diablo Wall...managed to suss out the moves on Deal Souls 14a and THAT is AKAN DATANG!

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