Friday, October 22, 2010


I guess everyone have their moments of epiphany. Individually, me and Tanleng had ours on our projects today. Difference is, I still didn't quite manage to send but she DID!!! El Diablo 12d/13a was pretty much her nemesis since day one of coming to AF. Just when she could do all the moves and cumulated all her efforts to one hang, she was still stumped by the huge (cos she's 5 ft) deadpoint to the pocket at the 3rd clip.

Anyway, I was punting on Big G when I randomly spotted a tiny chip for my left foot that worked wonders for sticking the undercling move on the Cop Killer crux, STATIC!!! EPIPHANY!! Problem was, it was my 2nd burn and I was also feeling the effects of Wed's gym sesh. Went on to making the move successfully on my next go but faded out higher.

I guess this really motivated Tanleng to seriously refine her beta and with the discovery of a foothold way out left, her moment of epiphany enable her to make the move to the pocket static! Unfortunately, she was also starting to fatigue cos it was late in the day, probably around 6 pm and light was fading. I managed to convince to her give it one more go with the rationale that she's got nothing to lose anyway. I mean, we've both fallen so many gozillion times at the cruxes of our projects, how's one more fall gonna matter? This turned out to be the send of the day so BIG PROPS to my little pocket rocket!

Looks like I've gotta start bringing my A game the next time. Wish I had this in my arsenal though...the new 2011 Demon, availabe Dec 2010.


  1. yeeeeeep, micro-beta - can turn an epic into a saturday evening talkshow - and now do it spy ;) greez, from swizzy, martin

  2. Thanks for the encouragement! I'm afraid the season has closed on me. It has started dumping and now it's freezing out there. It's hard on the rope cos the fingers have so much time to freeze. Great for bouldering though.